The
Tanning Process
For three decades, the
practice of tanning in the
United States has increased
in popularity.
Everyone loves the
healthy-looking, golden glow
acquired from exposure to
ultraviolet light;
therefore, it is unlikely
that tanning will ever
become a passing fad.
With each year that passes,
consumers become more
educated about skincare and
tanning and demand
higher-quality products and
services for their money. In
order to keep up with their
demands, salon owners and
operators must understand
the latest trends in
equipment and products as
well as have a firm grasp on
the most-effective marketing
and customer services
practices. But above all,
consumers and salon owners
are jumping on the bandwagon
of responsible and gradual
tanning. By enforcing this
at the salon level, we can
keep our customers skin
looking great with a
healthy-looking tan.
Solar Ultraviolet
Radiation
The solar radiation reaching
the earth can be broken down
into rays of varying
wavelengths. The light that
can be seen with the unaided
eye is called the visible
spectrum and is made up of
rays between 400 and 780
nanometers (nm) in length.
(A nanometer is one
millionth of a millimeter.)
Just more than 50 percent of
light that reaches the
earth's surface falls into
this range. Most of the
remainder is called infrared
light, which are rays longer
than 780 nm.
About one-twentieth of the
sun's light that reaches the
earth is of a shorter
wavelength than the visible
spectrum. It is this
fractional amount, the
ultraviolet light, that
results in the phenomena
known as suntanning and
sunburning. The ultraviolet
radiation is further broken
down into three types-UVA
(320-400nm), UVB (280-320
nm) and UVC (100-280 nm).
Solar radiation in the UVC
range is absorbed almost
entirely by the carbon
dioxide and ozone in the
atmosphere. This is
fortunate, considering that
even short exposure to any
quantity of UVC is very
harmful to the eyes and
causes severe sunburn.
Artificial Ultraviolet
Radiation
The sun is not the only
source that emits rays such
as ultraviolet and infrared;
lamps also are capable of
emitting rays. Techniques
have been discovered to
permit lamps to radiate
relatively more UV or IR
(infrared radiation). These
lamps are developed
specifically for tanning and
emit radiation with a
spectrum in which the
required ultraviolet is
present in abundance. The
desired type of radiation
can be further achieved by
using filters to eliminate
the unwanted rays.
The process of tanning
depends upon the energy
supplied in the form of UV
radiation and the time
during which it takes place.
The amount of radiation
energy administered is known
as the dose.
Effective Dose And Action
Spectrum
Radiation dose is the
primary factor in
determining how rapidly the
skin will tan. However,
several other factors also
need to be considered.
First, the type of skin to
be radiated is important
because tender, fair skin
reacts very differently to
radiation than does darkly
pigmented skin. Wavelength
is also an essential factor.
As mentioned earlier, the
skin reacts more
dramatically to the short
UVB rays than to the UVA
which have a longer
wavelength.
The objective of radiation
equipment is to radiate skin
with an irradiance level
that is needed at a
particular distance to
achieve the biological
effect known as tanning.
The Benefits of Indoor
Tanning Lotions
Every day your clients
battle the war to maintain
healthy skincare. And as a
tanning and skincare expert
you are responsible for
protecting and preserving
your customers' skin by
offering a selection of
lotions to keep skin soft,
supple and looking healthy.
No one can dispute the fact
that the lotion and skincare
segment of the tanning
industry has experienced
explosive growth in the last
eight years. Both veteran
and newcomer lotion and
skincare manufacturers have
recognized the market
potential and expanded their
product lines to provide
tanners with a wide array of
choices. From lotions and
gels, to sprays and
greaseless oils, today's
tanners have a plethora of
products to choose from.
Construction and
MaintenanceSpecial filters are used to
remove unwanted wavelengths
of UVR, primarily UVB and
shorter wavelengths of UVA
(320-340 nm), leaving most
of the longer wavelengths of
UVA (340-400 nm) intact.
This allows the
high-pressure spectrum to
produce a deeper, darker,
longer-lasting tan.
Research supports the fact
that high-pressure systems
do provide a deeper, darker
and longer-lasting tan when
compared to low-pressure
systems. This occurs because
longer wavelengths of UVA
penetrate deeper into the
skin that do shorter
wavelengths of UVA and UVB
wavelengths and, therefore,
are able to oxidize melanin
granules farther away from
the surface of the skin.
These deeper oxidized
granules take longer to
reach surface of the skin
and allow for a deeper tan
with longer life.
It must be mentioned that
greater care should be
exercised when tanning
anyone who is most sensitive
to UVR (that goes for
high-pressure as well as
low-pressure tanning). All
tanners who frequent a
tanning salon will have a
pre-established level of
sensitivity to UVR.
Therefore, if they are
overexposed to UVR, whether
on a high-or low-pressure
system, they will burn.
Manufacturers are taking
design and engineering to
the next level by offering
stylish-looking equipment
featuring the latest
technological advancements.
Keeping luxury in the
forefront of the tanning
experience, high-pressure
units continue to offer
comfortable and large
tanning surfaces. Some units
feature bells and whistles,
including mattresses that
feature massage options and
aromatherapy, to provide
tanners with a more
enjoyable and relaxing
session.
Today's equipment choices
feature brightly colored,
full body wraparound
canopies, high-powered
adjustable cooling fans,
easy-to-replace snap-in
lamps, digital bed controls
positioned at eye level, and
voice prompting.
High-pressure manufactures
are focusing on lamp
placement and output on the
UV spectrum rather than
bombarding the tanner with
increased wattage and heat.
In addition to providing
great tanning results, it
reduces the amount of heat
output, which in turn saves
the salon in energy costs.
High-pressure equipment is
available in traditional
beds or standup versions,
which offers myriad choices
when it comes to planning
space. Tanning salon owners
are continuing to purchase
high-pressure units so as to
offer a more diverse mix of
tanning options for their
customers. A tanner in this
type of mix often is
encouraged to rotate between
the high-pressure and
low-pressure units in order
t maintain a deeper, darker
tan, as well as maintain
optimal levels of vitamin D.
Since little or no vitamin D
is produced by wavelengths
higher than 315 nanometers,
high-pressure alone is not
an effective system fro
producing this important
vitamin. This is one reason
some salons have clients who
alternate between
high-pressure and
low-pressure systems.
Tanning in both systems
gives the tanner the best
benefits and features of
both lamp types. As we get
ready for the 2003 season,
there is no doubt that
high-pressure tanning will
continue to grow because of
its unique features and
benefits. Salons that
feature a mix of low-,
medium- and high-pressure
tanning will continue to
benefit from customers
upgrading for the added
value of high-pressure
tanning. The key is to
properly educate customers
on the benefits of
high-pressure tanning and
how it add s to their
overall tanning experience.
Technical Aspects Of
High-Pressure Tanning
High-pressure tanning
systems utilize lamps filled
with mercury vapor (under
high pressure, hence the
name) that can develop very
high UVR intensity levels.
Special blue glass filters
are used to remove unwanted
wavelengths of UVR,
primarily UVB (280-320 nm)
and UVA2 (320-340 nm),
leaving most of the UVA1
(340-400 nm) wavelengths
intact. Keep in mind that
UVB at 305 nm has 1,000 to
1,200 times more sunburning
power than does UVA1 at 365
nm. This is why
high-pressure systems are
much less likely to cause
sunburn when compared to
tube type tanning systems.
However, that does not mean
high-pressure systems cannot
cause sunburn-they can and
do if used unwisely.
Obviously, great care must
be exercised when tanning
the most UVR sensi tive
individuals with both
high-pressure and tube type
tanning systems. It is
generally accepted that a
high-pressure tanning system
can produce a deeper, darker
and longer-lasting tan than
does tube type system. This
is because the UVA1
wavelengths penetrates more
deeply into the skin than do
UVB and UVA2 wavelengths
and, therefore, are able to
oxidize melanin granules
farther away from the
surface of the skin. Since
these oxidized granules will
take longer to reach the
surface of the skin, the tan
produced by a high-pressure
system will be deeper,
darker and longer-lasting.
Some anti-tanning
individuals have stated that
the fact that UVA1
wavelengths penetrate more
deeply into the skin that
there is the potential for
collagen damage. First of
all, there is no evidence to
support this contention and
it must be remembered that
the wavelengths penetrating
the deepest into the skin
are the visible (400-700 nm)
and the near-infrared
(700-1,000 nm) and the
infrared (1,000-4,000 nm).
Therefore, if UVA1
wavelengths are harmful,
then visible and infrared
photons also must be harmful
and, once again, there is no
credible medical evidence to
support his contention.
Moreover, since recent
research shows that there is
enough UVB present in the
typical high-pressure system
to stimulate the production
of both melanin and vitamin
D, this fact will also
stimulate the acceptance of
high-pressure tanning
systems by both tanning
salon owners and clients
alike.
The Future
Despite the advantages of
stand-up unit, the
traditional tanning bed
remains the industry
standard, mainly because
people enjoy unwinding while
they tan. Many consider it
as much an escape as a
cosmetic treatment.
Another benefit of beds lies
in the initial cost of the
unit. A quality tanning bed
can be bought new for about
$4,000 and there are a wide
variety of units in the
$4,000-$40,000 price range.
Standups, on the other hand,
start at about $8,000 and
prices go up from there,
jumping considerably for
extra bells and whistles.
But looking at it another
way, standups can tan
customers more quickly,
permitting a salon to serve
more clients, ideally
generating enough extra
income to make up for the
difference in cost. Some
salons choose to reap the
benefits of both formats.
Increasingly, tanning salons
are offering both beds and
standups and leaving the
choice up to their clients.
At one time, the standups
used in salons were
frequently equipped with
lamps that emitted
100-percent UVB rays. Salon
owners today should bear in
mind that units using lamps
with high UVB output should
be considered obsolete. Some
in the industry express
concern over whether even
short doses of strong UVB
are acceptable in the long
run. The FDA has cut its
maximum session time
recommendation from 30
minutes to 15 minutes on
some such units.
Tanning Unit Components
To an inexperienced tanning
salon owner, a tanning unit
can look intimidating, and
when it is dismantled, it
gets even more confusing.
For this reason, a basic
course on tanning unit
components is essential for
novices and makes a good
review for the experienced
equipment owner.
Acrylic
Have you ever noticed that
the very word seems to have
a permanent top question
mark after it? For example,
what is acrylic? How do I
clean my acrylic? What
disinfectant do I use on my
acrylic? How do I know when
to change my acrylic?
The following answers some
commonly asked questions
about the industry s most
lonely and often forgotten
component- the acrylic
shield.
Cleaning Acrylics
Now that you have the
acrylic, you need to keep it
clean for a variety of
reasons. The acrylic will
degrade faster if a salon
owner is not cleaning it
properly. In addition to
disinfecting the Acrylic
acrylics after each and
every tanning session with
an EPA-registered and
state-approved cleaner, the
acrylics top and bottom
should be taken out at least
once a month and thoroughly
cleaned. The consensus is to
clean every nook and cranny,
including the bulbs. And
everyone agrees on the
importance of NOT using
products that contain any
alcohol or ammonia.
Acrylic that is properly
cared for will enhance your
ability to tan your
customer. Not only should an
approved cleaner be used,
but salon owners also should
prevent scratching as well
as help absorb and clean.
Scratches on acrylic can be
a problem; however, they can
be prevented. Customers
should be instructed to
remove jewelry before they
lie down on the bed to avoid
acrylic damage.
Additionally, remind your
customers to use indoor
tanning sessions. Remember,
once you get that first nick
or scratch it will continue
to get bigger, just like a
crack in a car windshield.
Again, daily cleaning and a
thorough once-a-month
cleaning with the
appropriate cleansers will
go a long way in preserving
your acrylic shields.
However, if your acrylic
shield cracks, replace it
immediately.
Acrylic Guidelines
DO NOT allow your
customers to clean the beds
themselves
DO NOT disinfect the
acrylic shield after each
session. This is required by
both the EPA and state
regulations.
DO use a disinfectant that
is registered with the EPA
and the state where the
salon is located.
DO NOT put anything on the
acrylic that has an alcohol
or ammonia base as it will
break down the acrylic
DO take the acrylics off
the bed and thoroughly clean
the shields and the other
bed components at least once
a month. This will help
maintain the longevity of
your equipment.
DO NOT allow you customers
to use oils of any kind or
lotions that are
specifically made for
outdoor use because these
products will break down
acrylic.
DO clean the acrylic on
the top of the bed on a
regular basis because it
tends to accumulate more
dust buildup than the bottom
shield.
DO use a cotton cloth or
towel when cleaning the
acrylic. They are less
abrasive than paper towels.
DO polish the acrylic
shield regularly to extend
the life of the shield.
DO ask your customers to
remove their jewelry while
tanning to help keep the
shield from being scratched.
Minimum Erythemal Dose
And Minimum Melanogenic Dose
MED is the Minimal Erythemal
Dose and is defined as the
threshold dose that may
produce MMD, on the sunburn.
MMD, on other hand, is the
Minimal Melanogenic Dose and
is equal to the lowest dose
required to develop a
visible suntan. Even though
the terms MED and MMD seem
to be self-explanatory at
first glance, the
translation of these values
in the daily practice of
indoor tanning often leads
to misunderstandings of
wrong interpretations,
especially when it comes to
determining exposure times
based on MED and MMD values.
Determining Threshold
Dosages Assume that
unprotected skin has been
exposed to UV radiation for
the first time. In order to
determine the MED, the
reaction of the skin will be
recorded 24 hours after
exposure. The minimal dose
that induces any visible
skin reddening at that point
of time is defined as one
MED. Redness that occurs
immediately after exposure
and disappears during the
following three to five
hours is caused mainly heat
and is not comparable with
real UV erythema. This is
the reason why the reading
is not taken until 24 hours
later.
For users of tanning units,
the MED provides important
information about the
sunburning effect of the
equipment, since an even
perceptible reddening is the
first sign of a sunburn
reaction. In order to
prevent possible acute or
long-term risks due to
indoor tanning, the MED
should not be exceeded
during a session.
The MMD is determined in a
very similar manner. In
contrast to the MED
examination, the readings
are performed seven days
after exposure instead of 24
hours. The minimal dose
required to produce an even
noticeable tan, which can
still be observed seven days
later, is defined as one MMD.
The interval between
exposure and reading is
necessary to permit the
occurrence of new melanin
biosynthesis (melanogenesis),
which only becomes evident
after several days of UV
application.
To better understand MED and
MMD, it should be said that
both are individual values.
The lowest effective dose
developing a sunburn as well
as the value producing a
suntan depend distinctly on
the skin sensitivity of the
person. In order to
eliminate these individually
influencing factors, MED and
MMD have been standardized.
With standardized MED and
standardized MMD values,
sunlamp products can be
characterized and specified
and become comparable with
respect to their biological
capabilities. Such
information based on these
standard values are of
higher ranking meaning than
are statements about the
physical data such as UVB/UVA
ratio or UVB percentage.
Comparing Standard MED And
MMD.
By comparing MED and MMD
values of tanning units, it
may be surprising that the
required exposure time for
reaching one MMD is usually
longer than the
corresponding time for
reaching one MED. This seems
to indicate that it is
impossible to tan without
first developing skin
redness. At the same time,
the question comes up: How
can we achieve tanning
slowly, progressively, and
safely without producing
sunburn? To shed some light
on this question, consider
the following:
MED and MMD are standardized
values and valid for
unprotected and untanned
Skin Type II. This means
that such
given values are basically
only valid before undergoing
the
first exposure. The effect
on the skin of a melanogenic
dosage will become evident
only three to five days
after exposure, at the
earliest. Further,
melanogenesis is a
long-lasting process,
therefore, consecutive
single dosages work
cumulatively. In other
words, the skin does not
forget the induced pigment
effects and accumulates
these single
pigment-producing dosages
over time. Besides
melanogenesis, there exists
the IPD, an immediate
pigment darkening effect
which is a rather
superficially effective
tanning mechanism. IPD is a
transient reaction induced
by the photochemical
oxidation of preformed
melanin pigments by
long-wave UV, darkening the
skin during exposure. By use
of a tanning unit, for
example, which is
characterized by an exposure
time of 20 minutes for one
ME D and 45 minutes for one
MMD, melanogenesis can be
induced in two different
ways.
MED/MMD-Based Schedule
Consider the given MMD
exposure time of 45 minutes.
Although the applied
melanogenic dose is high
enough to produce new
pigments, an exposure of
this duration cannot be
recommended because the MED
would be exceeded more than
twice during such a session.
The better way to get a tan
will be by starting an
exposure schedule consisting
of three applications of 15
minutes each during one
week. The advantage of such
procedure is twofold. The
applied dose per session
does not reach the limit of
one MED, however, at the
same time the skin has
received a total melanogenic
dose of one MMD. This means
the process of new pigment
formation will remain
healthier. Furthermore, at
the beginning of each
tanning session series, this
exposure schedule is in
agreement with FDA
regulations.
In addition to melanogenesis,
even during the first
exposure session the skin
will be tanned immediately
if the horny layer contains
some weakly colored,
pre-formed pigments which
then can be darkened by IPD.
Generally, human skin has
some pigment prestages
available (except Skin Type
I). In this context, it may
be helpful to know that with
most of the commonly used
sunlamps, the threshold dose
to initiate IPD will be
reached quicker than 1 MED.
Depending on the amount of
available pigment pre-stages
(and on Skin Types) the
effect of IPD usually
remains only for hours-at
the most a few days. With an
increasing number of
sessions, the amount of
pre-stage pigment will be
enhanced.
Talking about indoor tanning
as well as outdoor tanning,
the mechanisms of "immediate
pigment darkening" and of
"pigment formation" (melanogenesis)
interact so that a clear
differentiation between both
is often impossible. As a
rule, it can be established
that IPD is more important
during the first sessions
while melanogenesis comes
more and more into play
during the following
exposures.
By using tanning units, both
mechanisms are utilized. At
the beginning, the tanning
results are caused mainly by
IPD. With increasing
sessions the obtained suntan
becomes darker and deeper
due to further melanin
synthesis.
Further, with a well-tanned
skin, the required exposure
time to develop an erythema
will be prolonged, and
provide an effective sun
protection.
SPF Calculation
In order to calculate the
SPF of a sunscreen, two
terms must be understood.
SPF-Ratio of the amount of
energy required to produce a
minimal sunburn through a
sunscreen product film to
the amount of energy
required to produce the same
minimal sunburn without any
sunscreen protection.
MED-"Minimal erythema dose"
is the amount of energy
needed to produce a
just-perceptible sunburn.
In calculation, the
following formula is used:
SPF = MED protected skin/MED
unprotected skin.
Factors That Affect SPF And
Tanning
There are a number of
factors that determine the
effect of SPFs on the
tanning process.
(1) Formula-Oils are
generally less effective
than creams.
(2) Amount applied-It is
important to apply a thick,
even film of sunscreen and
to re-apply it after
swimming or exercise.
(3) Skin type-It determines
your amount of natural
protection. Fair skin burns
easily and produces little
tan because it has little
natural protection. Dark
skin tans easier and burns
less because it has more
natural protection.
(4) Location-Affects how
much UV gets through the
atmosphere. There is more UV
exposure at high altitudes
and more near the Equator
than at the Poles.
(5) Time of day and season
of the year-These factors
determine the tilt and
rotation of the earth, and
this affects how much UV
gets through the atmosphere.
Sun energy is most intense
between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m.
and more intense in summer
than winter.
(6) Reflection and
transmission of light-Light
reflects off sand, water,
cement, etc. Glass transmits
UVA light.
After Tan Odor Many tanners
complain about an unusual
smell after completing your
tanning session. Put their
questions to rest by
educating them that it is a
natural physical occurrence.
Aside from producing a
cosmetic tan, indoor tanning
units produce heat and
generally cause many indoor
tanners to perspire. During
perspiration, a protein is
secreted. Bacteria that live
in and on our skin eat away
at this protein, which
produces an odor. In
addition, every person has a
unique body chemistry that
can be influenced by diet
and hormones. A combination
of personal hygiene habits,
perfumes and lotions also
may play a role in producing
the "after-tan" smell.
Perspiration also may have
an ammonia-like smell.
Many indoor tanners have
been concerned that they
might "wash off" their tans.
But in reality, it takes at
least eight to 24 hours to
visualize the result of a
tanning exposure. It is
important to note that
tanning tends to rob the
skin of moisture, so it is
essential to moisturize the
skin in order to maintain
the tan.
In the tanning process,
melanin is stimulated,
migrates to the epidermis
and is oxidized-resulting in
a tan. These skin cells
slough off every 28-30 days.
So for those individuals
desiring a tan, a
maintenance schedule with
subsequent tanning sessions
in moderation is often
desirable.
Before tanning, the skin
should be clean and free of
cosmetics that may block UV
absorption in order to
obtain the best results.
Whether to shower before or
after a tanning session
isn't really the
question-it's a question of
personal hygiene.
Tanning and Heredity
Melanin is the leading
factor that determines a
person s skin color, and its
presence is determined by
heredity factors. This is
based on the regions of the
world from which a person s
ancestors came and is
referred to as
constitutional skin color.
But not all skin color is
based on constitutional skin
color. Facultative skin
color, referred to as
tanning, is the result of
deliberate exposure to
ultraviolet radiation. Here,
hormonal factors determine
the shade of a tan one will
develop.
Each skin type reacts in its
own way to UV radiation. The
reaction is dependent upon
the amount of pigment
already in the skin
naturally, the capability to
build up additional
protection (facultative
pigmentation) and the degree
of thickening of the
uppermost horny skin layer (acanthosis).
All of these factors are
determined genetically. In
the initial stage of
tanning, the skin has what
are called pre-pigment
grains that appear
gray-brown in color. The
visible result of these
grains is immediate tanning,
seen in people who tan
easily. However, this color
can disappear very quickly,
in as few as 24 hours. In
the lowest layer of the
outer skin, the melanocytes
(melanin-producing cells)
begin to generate new
pigment grains called
melanosomes. Because this is
a slower process than the
immediate tanning of
pre-pigment grains, it is
known as indirect
pigmentation. With the
presence of UVB, melanocytes
are stimulated to divide,
creating more pigment cells.
During this time, the
epidermis thickens to form
additional protection, again
a condition referred to as
acanthosis.
The actual production of
melanin occurs deep within
the outer skin where
melanocytes are situated.
Melanocytes are capable of
growing between the
surrounding keratinocyte
cells and forming offshoots
called dendrites. It is at
this point that melanocytes
have the ability to be
stimulated by UV rays to
achieve their purpose of
producing melanin.
Eventually, the pigment
grains change from their
initial pink color to their
final stage of reddish brown
or a tan. The peak color
that can be achieved is
dependent upon an
individual's tanning
schedule and individual
factors such as skin type,
hormonal influences and
recent UV history. Melanin
can compensate for only so
much UV light. It's not
difficult to spot a tanner
who has had too much UV
exposure. Photo-induced
inflammation, better know as
a sunburn, is the result of
an overdose of UVB rays.
Longer wave UVA produces a
reddening of the skin only
when sufficient
photosensitizing effects are
taking place, due to an
excess dosage or a high
concentra tion of
photosensitizing substances,
such as certain medications,
perfumes or lotions. A
sunburn resulting from too
much UVB causes cell damage
on only the top germ layer
where cells eventually flake
off. A sunburn from UVA,
however, reaches deep into
the connective tissues,
permanently damaging the
delicate elastic fibers of
the skin.
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